Even if you don't think you'll ever make your own ball gown from window drapes, there may come a time when you want to fix that small rip in your favorite party dress or duds. Everyone should have some rudimentary sewing skills. If you've never sewn before you may have the idea that a lot of expensive equipment and fancy stitching skills are required for quality looking work. That's just not true. Prior to the development of our consumerist society – where we go out and buy whatever we want – people have been making their own clothing, bedding, and other items for hundreds (even thousands) of years. Whether sewing by hand or using a machine, learning to sew isn't complicated at all, and with a few good tips and tricks under your belt you'll be repairing and creating your own clothing and home projects in no time.
My first experiences with a needle and thread were as a child. I was taught how to cross-stitch and embroider... and I loved it! In my early 20's I took a fashion design course. Although I only made it a year and a half through the course before the direction of my life changed, I developed a nice set of useful sewing skills. Like many new stitchers, I didn't have a sewing machine when I first started out. I had my hands and some needles. It wasn't until my grandma bought me a $400 home sewing machine from Sears for my birthday did I then finally learn to machine stitch. Over the years I've sewn a lot. For a while, I had a side business where I did alterations and repaired clothing for people. During my Renaissance days I made costumes for myself, friends, and family. I've even worked with a lot of (dare I say it) leather. Plus various home projects.
Getting started is easy! Of course, some tools are required, after all, that thread isn't going to work itself into the fabric. But aside from an actual machine, the rest is pretty low cost. So, grab a notepad and let's make a list...
Needles: There is absolutely a difference in needles. By hand or by machine, be sure to use the right needle for the right job. There are quilting needles, darning needles, upholstery needles, crafting needles, beading needles, leather needles, tapestry needles, denim needles, and so on. Although all needles have an eye (the hole for threading) and a point (the sharp end that goes through the fabric), the needle size and point structure differ. When it comes to size, a good rule of thumb: the more delicate and lightweight the fabric is, the finer the needle should be. If you're working with a thick heavy material, use a thicker stouter needle. Different needle points are also used for different materials. Ball points are rounded and go between fabric fibers (perfect for knit fabrics). Sharp points go through fabric fibers (perfect for woven fabrics). These are the two main point types although there are a few others (for example, leather needles are either wedge or triangle shaped, making it easier to pierce through the material). If you're beginning by hand and can only purchase one pack of needles, choose a pack of regular sharps to start. These work well for most beginning sewing projects and you can always expand later. Note: needles used in sewing machines are very different from hand-sewing needles. The most noticeable difference is that the eye of a machine needle is near the point rather than at the opposite end like a hand needle. Depending on the sewing machine you're using, you may have limited choice in needle selection as some machines only work with certain brands.
Head pins: These pins are sharp like a needle on one end but have a round or flat head on the other end. Although not an initial necessity if you don't have any, head pins are used for tacking two or more layers of fabric together. This helps keep seems aligned, edges strait, and sewing much easier. You can also use a basting stitch in the same way, which I'll be covering in my next hand sewing article.
Pincushion: It may not seem important, but that pincushion Granny kept her needles in wasn't just a funny looking pillow with metallic hair. Pin cushions play a couple of very important roles and I recommend using one for hand needles. First, it's a place to collect and keep your needles so they aren't just falling on the floor to be lost and stepped on. Second, many are filled with an abrasive material (such as sand) to keep needle points sharp. If you don't already have one, you can buy one (the most popular being the tomato with a strawberry) or stay tuned to this site for an upcoming pincushion project that you can make yourself. I also have a magnetic "pincushion" that I use only for head pins. For machine needles, I don't use a pincushion at all. When you buy a pack of machine needles they come in a little plastic case with a flip lid. It's perfect for storing these types of needles.
Needle threader: It can get pretty tricky (and sometimes downright frustrating) to thread a teeny tiny needle eye. To take the drama out of this task, simply insert the thin wire tip of a needle threader into the eye, the thread goes through the larger hole of the threader, then pull the threader back through the hole and you're ready to rock! It's much easier to slip that smooth tiny wire through the eye than a frayed and frantic thread end. I promise.
Thimble: This little gem is a finger-saving must for hand sewing, but useless with a machine. Without one, you could end up with painful and chewed up finger pads. Wear a thimble on whichever finger you'll use to push the needle through the fabric, especially with thicker fabrics or when working with multiple layers. It's guaranteed to feel awkward at first, but hang in there. With practice and use you'll gradually become comfortable and find your flow with it on. There are different sizes, styles, and materials. Try on several to feel which one fits you the best. It also may take a little time to figure out which finger to wear it on. I wear mine on the middle finger of my right hand because I'm right-handed and my index finger needs to be unencumbered to maneuver fabric freely with my thumb.
Wax chunk: What the heck does wax have to do with fabric? Well, after you thread the needle, but before you start sewing, draw the thread through the wax. This coats the thread, smoothing it out and allowing it to move more easily through the fabric with reduced twisting or knotting. I use a star-shaped piece of beeswax (which lasts forever). Of course, this is also only used for hand sewing, not machine work.
Scissors: A regular pair of scissors will work for thread cutting, but when slicing up fabric I really recommend fabric shears because they're sharp and designed just for cutting such materials. Start with a strait edge pair and later on consider investing in some pinking shears too, especially if you plan on doing a lot of projects. Pinking shears make a zig-zag cut which keeps fabrics from unraveling easily.
Seam ripper: Not just for ripping out mistakes. Theses handy little tools are perfect for removing old stitching from clothing during repairs and alterations, as well as temporary stitches after permanent stitches are in place, and anytime an unnecessary stitch is in the way. Never use scissors to remove stitches – it just tears up the fabric.
Iron: The biggest take-a-way from the fashion design course I took was this one simple trick: the difference between a professional looking sew job and a sloppy one is finishing every stitch and seam by running a hot iron over it. Throughout all of my sewing project instructions on this site I will always include ironing directions. This one little thing makes a huge difference in appeared quality of work. Don't have an ironing board? Just lay a towel down on a table.
Sewing machine: If you're ready to use a sewing machine and haven't already done so, you'll need to acquire one – new or used. The topic of sewing machines is enormous, but I will say this here: make sure that no matter the brand, get a copy of the owner/operator manual. If your machine is new, it'll come with one. If it's used with no manual, go online to download a digital copy or contact the manufacturer and see if they can send you one. And don't just let that manual sit there collecting dust. Read it! Every machine is a bit different. Use the manual to learn how to load the thread, fill the bobbin and insert it correctly, use different stitch settings, and various other functions. Keep your machine clean too. I have a hard case that my machine is stored in which keeps dust and debris from getting in it, while making transport easier. Start here: getting to know your sewing machine.
Sewing machine attachments: There are a multitude attachments that you can buy separately just for your machine. Different feet do different jobs. There are button hole attachments, zipper attachments, ruffle attachments... you get my drift. I won't go into it all here, but I want you to know that you can do amazing things with some of these accessories.
Thread: Threads are made out of different materials, some natural (like cotton) others synthetic (like polyester). Threads come in a variety of weights and weaves. For fine and delicate fabric, lightweight threads are well suited; For heavy thick fabrics, choose a heavyweight thread. Threads also come in a plethora of colors. It's always recommended to choose a color that matches the fabric it'll be used on. However, if you're starting on a budget, go with black, white, gray, or brown. These are universal and can work with most things.
Fabric: Know the type of material you're working with. Generally, if the material stretches then it's a knit fabric, if the material is firm then it's a woven fabric. Remember: knits work best with ball point needles and woven's work best with sharps. There are other materials as well, like net and lace, which require a little extra special care. Just like thread, some materials are natural and others are synthetic. Every project on this site will include a discussion of appropriate materials. Of course, if you're just looking to repair clothing, then there's no need to acquire fabric.
So, let's take a look at that list. If you're starting with hand sewing, the checklist should look like this: hand needles, head pins, pincushion, needle threader, thimble, wax chunk, scissors, seam ripper, and an iron. Including a cheap iron, you can purchase this entire list new for under $40. If you're heading toward machine sewing, then along with the machine itself and any additional attachments, your list should have machine needles, head pins, needle threader, scissors, seam ripper, and an iron. Sewing machines can become an expense, especially if you buy a new one. Check your local sewing and vacuum repair shop for deals on used ones. Thread is important but, as with fabric, can be acquired based on project needs.
Here's an idea: Seriously, start browsing yard sales and thrift stores. Finding Granny's old sewing kit for just a few bucks would be an amazing treasure! You can often find bags of thread spools, interesting materials and fabrics, and all kinds of fun goodies. Remember, a smart DIY consumer reuses resources, gets creative, and saves money whenever possible.
With the right tools you're ready to actually start sewing. Take the next step by learning to get set up with Threading & More. Ready to start sewing? Learn to Master Hand Stitches or Get To Know Your Machine. Then we'll get to the fun stuff: playing with projects!
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