Long before sewing machines, people hand-stitched everything using needles made from natural items like bone and wood. Today, steel wire is shaped into this simple tool that's ideal for the task of sewing. In this tutorial, I'll take you through the 10 most important basic hand stitches that anyone can easily master. Remember, as with anything, practice is key. The more you sew the better you'll get.
Before we get going, especially if you're new to sewing, check out my article on how to Start With The Basics to build a better foundation and understand what supplies you'll need.
Long before my grandma gifted me with a sewing machine, I used these handy stitches to make repairs and create a variety of items. And, yes, I have sewn entire garments by hand! I still use hand-stitches regularly for projects. Even items that use a machine sometimes needs a section of hand-stitching.
To demonstrate for this article, I made a sewing sampler. A sampler is just a piece of material that has a sampling of stitches. Various projects use different materials and usually only one or two strands of thread, however, I used a swatch of bright white cross-stitch fabric and heavy embroidery thread so the photo's would come out clear and easily identifiable. If you're just learning to sew, making a sampler with cross-stitch fabric is a great way to get a feel for the stitches. This type of fabric is cross-hatched, forming neat little rows so it's easy to practice making all the stitches the same size.
Pro Tip: No matter what size or length your stitches are, the trick is to keep them all uniform. Equal sized stitches, along with good ironing skill, are what will make you a master at sewing.
Unless otherwise noted, most stitches start the same: thread the needle, knot the ends, and wax as desired (check out Threading & More article for tips). Aside from the basting stitch, all other stitches in this article are designed to be permanent. Choosing thread that matches the fabric allows the stitching to blend in and hide better, while choosing a contrasting color can be more decorative. It all depends on the project, the stitch, and your design vision.
Anchor Stitch & Lock Knot (grey)
Also known as a secure stitch, this is a single stitch that can be used at the beginning and end of a row to keep the thread from coming undone. Make a basic anchor by simply insert the needle into the fabric and take a single small stitch. Hide thread knots by starting the needle on the back or inside of the fabric. After taking one stitch forward, back track and bring the needle through the first hole again so that the thread circles around that bit of fabric. Depending on the project you may wish to loop around 2-3 times. If you're sewing fabric edge(s), you can loop around it. The anchor stitch alone is fine to start a row because the knotted thread end helps secure it in place. When ending a row, however, I recommend adding a lock knot. After making a basic anchor stitch, pull the needle between the fabric and thread (make sure this is done on the back side of the material). Create a knot by running the needle through the loop once or twice, now pull tight. For more security you can make a few locking knots.
Basting Stitch (red)
As the most basic of stitches, basting is used to temporarily hold fabrics together until permanent stitches are in place (better than headpins). Useful whether final stitches are sewn by hand or machine. Also great for outlining pattern markings such as darts or pockets. Make sure that the basting stitch will not interfere with the permanent stitch, but rather run parallel to it. Since these long stitches are removed after final stitches are completed, using a contrasting colored thread makes it easy to see. A single thread is common for this stitch, so there's no need to knot both ends together; just pull one end of the thread a few inches through the needle eye and knot the other end. Because basting is temporary, don't use an anchor stitch at the ends or it will be more difficult to remove. Simply weave the thread uniformly through the fabric about 1/4 to 1/2 inch in length, making sure it's not to too tight or too loose (the thread should be flush with the fabric). It should look like a dashed line. When removing basting stitches, use the seam ripper to cut every few inches or so, then just pull the little thread pieces out. Remove any basting before ironing seams and edges for a smoother fabric finish.
Running Stitch (orange)
This stitch is very similar to basting except meant to last longer and is the oldest used for clothing throughout history. It's great for a variety of other projects too, such applying appliques, gathering fabric, creating seams, and quick mending. Best used on light weight fabrics and where there won't be a lot of pull or pressure (the back stitch is better for thick fabric and heavy-use items). Run the needle in and out of the fabric creating an evenly spaced dashed line, not too loose or too tight but flat with the material (unless you're making a gathering). The biggest difference between this and the basting stitch is that running stitches should be much shorter, about 1/8 to 1/4 inch (shorter stitches are stronger). Weave the needle through several times before pulling the thread through to make a few stitches at once. Anchor at the start and end of each thread.
Back Stitch (yellow)
For a much stronger stitch, this is my go-to for clothing, bags, and other items that will get a lot of use. This incredibly versatile stitch looks the most like a standard machine stitch. After anchoring, run the needle through the fabric, from back to front, about 1/8 to 1/2 inch away from the anchor stitch. Pull the thread all the way through, then insert the needle into the fabric front at the end point of the last stitch, back tracking. Make the next stitch by running the needle, again from back to front, an equal distance past the previous stitch, then loop back again by inserting the needle into the end point of the last stitch, connecting them. Continue all the way down the line, pulling the thread taut as you go. The front side of the fabric will look like a neat little row, while the backside will be a chain of overlapping threads. The length you choose for this stitch will depend on the project and weight of the fabric. For example, the seam for a thick terrycloth towel will be fine with a longer stitch, while installing a zipper in the back of skirt will require a much shorter length.
Slip Stitch (lime)
Known also as ladder stitch, it's perfect for joining folded edges together. This stitch is invisible (just look at the photo!) and is used for adding linings, closing edges, and finishing hems. Get the most invisible seam by matching the thread to the fabric. Iron the folds flat before sewing for the cleanest look. This stitch is worked from the front side of the material (usually because the back side is unavailable, such as when closing a stuffed pillow). Insert the needle in through the backside of one folded edge, pulling the thread all the way through. The knot should keep it in place; no need for an anchor. Now, insert the needle into the folded edge of the other fabric, just opposite of where the thread is coming out from. Slide the needle forward 1/8 to 1/2 inch (again, depending on the project) and draw it through to the front fabric side. The insertion point and needle exit are both in the same fabric fold. Moving across the gap to the other piece of fabric, work the needle into and out of that fold edge. As you continue down the seam you'll be alternating from one side to the other creating a kind of ladder pattern. Pull the thread tight for that invisible look. To keep it in place, I like to end this with a tiny lock knot, before tucking the thread end between the folds.
Blind Stitch (green)
Considered invisible, this stitch is worked from the backside of the fabric and is very useful in hemming edges. Create a hem by folding the edge of the fabric between 1/4 to 1/2 inch, then folding it over once more so the raw edge is unseen inside. Iron for best results. Use a basting stitch or headpins to hold the hem together while sewing the blind stitch. For heavier fabrics, use a standard threaded needle with both ends knotted together. For more delicate materials, pull the thread only a few inches through the needle eye and knot the other end, creating a single layer of thread. Insert the needle from the inside of the fold pulling the thread through to the side facing you, hiding the knot. For more security, you can do a small anchor stitch inside the fold flap. Next, use the needle to pick up 2-3 fibers from the outer fabric layer just above the fold where the thread emerges from. Draw the needle through the folded piece, from inside to outside, 1/8 to 1/4 inch down the line. Again, pick up just a few strands of the outer fabric just above here, then continue to the next stitch. Don't pull the thread too tight, keep it flush with the fabric. In the photo, because I used thick contrasting colored embroidery thread so the instruction would be clear, my stitches are quite visible. For these stitches to become invisible from the right side of the fabric, use a single strand of thread that matches the fabric and only pick up a couple fibers from the outer material layer. A lock knot in the last stitch helps hold it all in place.
Catch Stitch (blue)
Another useful hemming stitch. Although not invisible like the blind stitch above, the catch stitch is also worked from the back side. It's great for hems that need to have a little give or are an odd shape (such as a rounded skirt hem). Fold the hem over twice, so the raw edge is hiding inside the fold. Any time you're working with hems or folds, be sure to iron before sewing for best results. Basting will hold the hem in place while you work. Draw the needle from inside of the fold, a little below the top edge, to the side facing you so the knot is hidden between the layers. You can also choose to do a small anchor stitch here. Run the needle through the outer material, above the fold and to the side of the thread exit point, then make a small stitch back through the outer fabric. Moving along the hem, make a small stitch backward in the folded fabric. Here you should see an X shape form. Continue with this same pattern. Don't pull the thread too tight, just make sure it's taut with the fabric. Finish with a lock knot in the last stitch. This is the most challenging of all the stitches here to master. Practice this one on a piece of scrap cloth until you feel comfortable with it.
Whip Stitch (purple)
Also called an overcast stitch, this one is ideal for finishing the edge of a single piece of fabric or the combined edges of an inner seam so as not to unravel, and it's useful for mending tears and seam rips (just bring the two edges of the torn material together). I also use this stitch sometimes when joining folded edges for a decorative finish. If joining more than one layer of material, you can anchor the end inside the fold between the layers. For a single piece of fabric, securing is up to you. Start stitching by pulling the needle through the fabric from back to front, looping the thread over the edge. Run the needle through the fabric again from back to front 1/8 to 1/4 inch down the row. This will create a diagonal line. Keep the stitches evenly spaced and be sure not to pull the thread too tightly. As with most stitches, the length will depend on the material used and your project needs. Tie it off with a lock knot in the last stitch.
Blanket Stitch (pink)
Not just for finishing blankets, this stitch creates a decorative appearance for many projects because it forms a quaint little chain of thread along edges. It's commonly used for applying appliques and outlining other details too, such as pockets. Because this stitch is meant for viewing, use any color thread that compliments the fabric, whether matching or contrasting. Start about 1/8 to 1/2 inch below the edge of the fabric (always based on the project and thickness of the material). Hide the knot by starting inside the layers (feel free to add a small anchor inside the folds for strength). Bring the thread around both edges (or through the base fabric if applying an applique) and draw the needle through the first hole again. Before pulling taut, run the needle backward through the loop once, creating a type of knot. Moving along the edge (1/8 to 1/2 inch), draw the needle from back to front again, through all the layers. Always run the needle back through the loop before pulling taut, forming a thread row along the the very edge of the folds. Repeat along the seam length. To finish, make a small lock knot in the last stitch, then draw the needle back through a couple of stitches before cutting and tucking the end in.
Buttonhole Stitch
I didn't include a buttonhole stitch in my sampler because it is exactly like the blanket stitch above. The only difference is that when supporting a button hole, the stitches should be right next to each other with very little space in between. After cutting the buttonhole just big enough to squeeze the button into, use a whip stitch to secure the edges with thread that's the same color as the fabric. Keep the whip stitch inside the buttonhole stitch allowance so that it will get covered up. For the buttonhole stitch, insert the needle from the back of the fabric to the front, loop it around the buttonhole edge and back through the original insertion point, drawing the needle backward through the loop before pulling taut (exactly like a blanket stitch). Bring the needle through from the back side of the fabric again just next to the first stitch, running the needle through the loop before tightening the thread. Continue in this fashion all the way around the button loop. Remember to keep the stitches as close together as possible. Be sure to use a locking anchor stitch at the end.
To reinforce any edge, use a padding stitch. All this means is to sew a running stitch or back stitch, parallel to any other stitch. One example is the hem of a denim jacket with two rows of back stitching right next to each other. A padding stitch can be used to support a buttonhole too, and would be placed around the outer border of the buttonhole stitch. It's just there to provide extra support.
Now that you've mastered these great stitches, let's create some awesome DIY projects!
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