There it is... your brand new (or new to you) sewing machine! It's so exciting. Just think of all the fun and crafty good times you're about to have. But, wait. How the heck do you use that dang thing? No worries! This is a basic introduction to sewing machines for the absolute beginner. Sewing may look or seem complicated, but it's actually quite easy. With just a little bit of understanding and some practice, you'll be repairing your favorite clothes and whipping up amazing new creations in no time.
I love my sewing machine! It was a gift from my grandma when I was enrolled in a fashion and design program at the age of 19. I'd had plenty of practice hand sewing since I was a kid, but this machine really stepped up my game. It's a 28-stitch Kenmore; good quality with all metal working parts. Brand new when I first got it, this machine cost my grandma about $400 in 1999. Second best gift I've ever received (next to my first skydiving adventure given to me by one of my best friends). Over the years I've sewn numerous garments and home projects: from renaissance costumes to shopping bags. And it's still in great shape so I expect to get many more years of enjoyment from it.
Don't have a machine yet?
If you don't already have a machine but are looking to get one, there are a couple of choices. Of course there's purchasing a brand new machine. But, on the other hand, you could always get a gently used one. Look up sewing machine repair shops in your area. They often have refurbished ones for a good price. Check online and find a reputable place with good reviews. Sewing machines can get quite fancy and expensive, but I really recommend starting with a simple 12-28 stitch machine. You can do so much with just a few simple functions.
If you're new to sewing, Start with the Basics!
How does a sewing machine work?
Unlike hand sewing where one strand of thread is woven in and out of the fabric, machines use a threaded needle from the top, which picks up a second thread from a bobbin beneath the fabric. All the while, feeding the material through at its own pace. You're just there to guide the fabric in the direction of your choosing. Simple enough?
Remember: Every brand and model is a bit different. Yours might have more or less stitch options and functions than mine. Make sure that you have a copy of the owner/operator manual. If your machine is new, it'll come with one. If it's used with no manual, go online to download a digital copy or contact the manufacturer and see if they can send you one. And don't just let that manual sit there collecting dust. Read it! Although this guide covers the basics, your machine manual will demonstrate exactly how to load the thread, fill and insert the bobbin correctly, use different stitch settings, and various other functions. Plus, it may offer tips and tricks specific to your machine. For troubleshooting, always refer to the manual.
Important: Like any piece of machinery, sewing machines should be serviced occasionally to keep all the parts working together and running smoothly. The first step is to keep your machine clean. If you have a full-on DIY spirit, I'll discuss how to clean and maintain your own machine in an upcoming article. Or, you can always take it to any sewing machine repair shop because that's what they specialize in.
What are all those do-dad's?
Let's take a look at the anatomy of a sewing machine and how it all works. Keep in mind that, because every machine is a little different, some of these things may be situated in places other than mine.
A) Power switch: Often on the right side of the machine you'll find the on/off switch.
B) Power cord: Your machine may have a power cord attached, but most likely it's detachable. If your power cord is separate, then find the plugin, usually around the power switch.
C) Foot peddle: This is the main component that controls the speed at which the machine moves. When the foot is pressed, the machine starts working. It's just like driving a car because the farther you press down the faster it goes. And your machine absolutely can go faster than you can control. Learning to control your foot my take a little practice, but you'll get it.
D) Hand wheel: The hand wheel and the foot peddle do exactly the same job except the wheel is manually operated and does not have the speed capabilities of the peddle. Which is ideal for controlling certain things, like lifting the needle. In the center of my hand wheel is a knob that pulls out, disengaging the needle movement (used when winding bobbins). You should have a switch or button that does this too.
E) Spool spindle: The post on top of the machine holds the spool of thread. It may be vertical or horizontal. If it's horizontal it should come with a spool holder to keep the spool in place. Mine has both.
F) Thread guide: This small attachment on the left side of the spindle directs the thread from the spool to the tensioner. Thread guide styles vary from machine to machine and may be plastic or metal.
G) Bobbin-winder tension disc (say that three times fast): On or around the thread guide is a little metal disc that not only guides the thread but offers a bit of tension when winding a bobbin.
H) Bobbin-winder: This is where a bobbin is placed when winding thread onto it.
I) Up-take lever: When threading the needle, the thread will pass through the eye-hole of this lever arm, which pulls thread from the spool to the needle when sewing.
J) Tension dial: Next to the up-take lever is a dial with numbers that adjusts the thread tension (how tight or loose the thread is pulled while sewing). If the tensioner is too tight it will pull the needle to the side; too loose and the stitches will bunch up on the under side of fabric.
K) Stitch adjustment dials / buttons: These will absolutely vary from machine to machine. They adjust the length and width of the stitch, as well as the type of stitch. This is where your manual is a must.
L) Reverse button: Press this button to reverse the direction that the machine feeds the fabric through. Used for securing stitches.
M) Needle clamp screw: This screw holds the needle in place.
N) Needle plate: The metal plate just beneath the presser foot that the needle slides in and out of to pick up the bottom thread. Most plates have seam guides etched into them.
O) Bobbin cover: The removable cover next to the needle plate can be metal or clear plastic (for easy viewing) and reveals the bobbin cage. There should either be a release latch or the cover should slide open.
P) Bobbin cage: This is where the bobbin is housed, feeding thread from the bottom. You may have a cage that is removed to put in a bobbin, or it may be a drop-down style (like mine). Check your manual.
Q) Presser foot: This holds the fabric in place while sewing. Several types of feet can attach to your machine and they all have different purposes, but for most sewing projects a standard foot works perfectly.
R) Presser foot pin: Pull or press (depending on your machine) the pin to release the presser foot. Attach a foot by simply snapping the bar back onto the little latch.
S) Presser foot lever: This lever lifts and lowers the presser foot. Note: Your machine may have a separate control to adjust how much pressure the foot places on the fabric, which can be useful when working with varying thicknesses of materials. Mine is located inside the case and can be found by opening the side panel.
T) Feed dog: Those jagged little teeth sticking up from the needle plate are responsible for pulling the fabric through the machine one stitch at a time.
So, where to begin?
Choose a table and chair that are comfortable at the right height (both feet flat on the floor). Set your machine on the table; the side with all the knobs should face you and the needle arm should be on the left. Place the foot peddle on the floor where you can easily reach it.
Insert the needle
Always turn the machine off before doing this as a safety measure. Machine needles are very different than hand needles. For machines, the thread hole is just above the needle point. At the other end, there's a wider shaft with a flat side. Start by using the hand wheel to lift the needle to its highest position, lower the presser foot with the lever, and loosen the needle clamp screw. There is only one way to put the needle into the insertion hole, matching the flat sides. Slide the needle all the way in, then tighten the clamp screw to secure. Needles get wear and tear with use, so change it out if it gets dull, bent, or otherwise damaged.
Practice advice
If you've never touched a sewing machine before, I suggest getting to know it before you ever even put a spool of thread on the spindle. After inserting the needle, turn the machine on, keeping your hands away from the sharp point. Start by turning the hand wheel so you can see how all the parts move in sync. The front of my case opens up and I can see the inner pieces move. Next, get a feel for the machine by placing your foot on the peddle. Start very slowly to press down on it. Little by little increase the speed (just so you can see how fast this thing really flies). Take this opportunity to practice controlling the speed with the foot peddle - one of the most important sewing machine skills to develop. Once you feel more confident, then bring on the thread.
Add the thread spool.
Place the spool of thread on the spool spindle. Slide the rod down the center hole of the spool, then secure with the spool holder if needed. Be aware that some types of thread spools have a small cut in the edge of one flat side to hold thread ends in place when not in use. If using this type of spool on a horizontal spindle, make sure that slit is facing to the right, away from the direction the thread will be going, so it won't catch or tear the thread while sewing. One of life's many lessons that I've learned the hard way (and again every time I forget).
Load the bobbin.
Before threading the needle, wind the bobbin. Most projects will use the same color thread for the underside as the top. Place an empty bobbin on the bobbin-winder. Run the thread strand from the spindle around the bobbin-winder tension disc. Bobbins have small holes on the flat sides. Draw the thread through one hole. Hold this thread end while winding. To engage the bobbin-winder there should be a lever next to it or the winder itself may act as the lever (like mine). Remember that knob in the middle of my hand wheel? You should also have a way to disengage the needle when using the bobbin-winder. It may be a button or lever instead of a knob. Use the foot peddle to activate the winder. There's a mechanism that stops the spinning when the bobbin is full, although you can stop anytime before that if you don't need that much thread. Cut the thread and your bobbin is ready to insert.
Open up the bobbin cover to place it in the cage. This part varies from machine to machine, so check out your manual. You may have to place the bobbin inside of a removable cage (thread wrapping clockwise), draw the thread end through the tension guide slit and into the hole, and then insert the piece back in. Or the bobbin may drop down into a built in cage from the top (like mine). If it does drop down, the thread should wrap counter-clockwise around the bobbin. Pull the thread end through the little metal tension guide along the front edge of the cage, from right to left. Leave the tail hanging out.
Now thread the needle.
The thread runs a path from the spool spindle on top, passes through the thread guide, then runs down and around the tensioner (usually through a channel or around the tension dial), back up and through the up-take lever, and finally down to a hook which guides it to the needle. To start, make sure the up-take lever is in its highest position using the hand wheel. Run the thread through the guide first, draw it down around the tensioner and then through the up-take lever eye-hole. Moving downward, there should be a small hook or loop just above the needle. It may be on the body of the machine. On mine, it's just in front of the needle clamp screw. Most machines have arrows and diagrams right on the machine to demonstrate which direction the thread should be going. Inserting the thread into the needle comes next. The needle should have a groove along one side. This is the side that the thread should enter from. The thread runs along this grove as the needle moves through the fabric. Pull the thread through a couple of inches.
The final step!
Firmly hold the needle thread end. Turn the hand wheel so the needle moves down into the needle plate and comes back up. This should bring up a loop of bobbin thread. If it doesn't that means the bobbin wasn't inserted properly. Again, check your manual to learn how to load the bobbin in your specific machine. Pull the end of the bobbin thread out. You should now have both ends of thread, one from the needle and one from the bobbin, coming out of the space between the presser foot and the needle plate.
Great! Now what?
You're ready to start sewing... but learning to work a machine still takes practice. No worries, though. My next sewing tutorial will show how to adjust settings and actually start stitching.
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