Rows are a traditional form of growing crops, and still the top method used on larger private and commercial farms today. Just like it implies, farm rows are either a row of individual hills or one long mound. Whether you're a backyard gardener or plan on plowing up the family farm, if you have a enough space – even for a few short rows – this method can be an excellent choice. In this article I'll be applying basic gardening principals to growing with farm rows and exploring how this technique differs from others.
In addition to being a mechanic and a construction worker, my dad was also a small scale farmer. He grew lots of squashes, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, okra, corn... all kinds of vegetables. I grew up with his farm row style and have used it many times over the years. Although there are some drawbacks and differences between farm rows in comparison to container gardening and raised beds (which is what I do now), there are definitely some benefits too. Even though rows are not the most efficient use of small space gardens, they are the best choice for larger areas. I've even had great success with short rows about 8-10 feet long. My dad used rows up to 50 feet long, but a larger farm may have rows a few hundred feet or more in length. If your garden area is smaller, farm rows could prove to be a less expensive investment, especially if you till by hand or with low cost equipment (I'll discuss this more in a minute).
Let's dig into those basic gardening principals. Remember, just like us animals, plants have to have their basic needs met too.
Shelter
Of course shelter refers to your gardens' living space. Unlike with containers or raised beds, rows are worked directly into the ground, so there's no need to build boxes or buy buckets. One benefit of this is that there's no limiting space for root systems. Plants can spread their roots deep and wide without reaching the edge of a box, allowing them to grow bigger and stronger. Just watch those melon plants sprawl. Rows are spaced apart, creating isles to walk down. This makes it much easier to feed, weed, and harvest. Choose row spacing width according to the amount of land you're working with, the size of the plants when full grown, and how much room you'll need to maneuver between rows.
When it comes to equipment needed, there's a trade-off compared to other methods (which can get away with just a hand trowel). Unlike raised beds or containers, row gardening should include tilling. The idea behind tilling is to loosen the Earth, providing air and space for root systems to grow. If you compost, make your own soil, or otherwise add nutrients, tilling will work these ingredients into the ground. I suggest doing this just before planting any crop. If you only grow veggies in the summer, then till once a year in the spring. If you also grow winter crops, then till again in the fall. Prepare the ground: remove weeds, add fresh compost, till the area, shape rows or mounds, then add new crops. Larger farms have equipment to work the land, like tractors that cut rows into the Earth. My dad used a tractor with till attachment for large areas and a heavy gas rototiller for smaller areas. However, I use a light 20-pound electric rototiller which works perfect for an urban backyard garden, and only cost me about $200 in 1999. You may be able to rent a rototiller from the local hardware store too. Of course, you can always work the soil by hand with a hoe and shovel (and I have before), but if you're working a good sized plot, keep in mind that it's a lot of physical labor (tip: wear heavy gloves).
Food
Let's talk about dirt. We all know that plants consume nutrients from the soil, so their food is in the Earth. When using boxes or containers, there's a lot more control over the soil that goes into them. But, gardening in rows pretty much uses just the ground that's available, especially in the beginning. Depending on where you live this could produce amazing results (such as nitrogen rich soil near a stream in a thriving valley) or become a nightmare (such as with iron-packed clay on a dry mountainside). I used to plant my rows in a very rocky location and that offered a special kind of struggle. If your dirt isn't the best, there are a few steps you can take to improve its quality... and granted, it might take a couple years to really become nourishing. First, start by importing some soil, either from a better location or buy buying some from the local garden center. Second, start composting right away - this is, in my opinion, the best way to condition your soil. Third, feed your plants regularly. Of course I'm not talking about chemical fertilizers, but rather natural ingredients like fish meal and rabbit poop. Also, crop rotation techniques and the use of cover crops can greatly improve your dirt. (I'll be discussing all of these in future articles). Nurturing garden soil is an ongoing process and I highly recommend composting and feeding all year-round.
(Photo provided by Unsplash / Photographer: Zbysiu Odak)
Consider this: Although I never have, a lot of farmers have their soil tested for nutrients, pH balance, and chemicals that can run-off from neighboring lands. Even for a small family garden, you may wish to do this, especially if you live near an industrial zone. Just use your favorite search engine to find a soil testing lab.
Water
Keep in mind that growing directly in the ground can take more water than containers (especially if you live in a drier region) because there's more dirt surrounding the plants for the water to spread into. Placing crops in a line, growing from the top of hills, allows water to flow freely in the valleys between them. This is less efficient and economical that other methods, as it takes a lot of water to flood the valleys. However, if you live next to a year-round creek, flood plane, or a place where the water table is high, growing crops directly in the Earth would use some of the pre-existing ground water, reducing water usage. To lower water waste, my dad would create his rows and next to each one dig a small ditch the length of the row that was a few inches lower than the walking path. As he watered, he'd place the hose at the end of one ditch (usually the higher end since he often farmed on slopes), letting the water work its way to the far end of the ditch. Then he'd move the hose to the next one, keeping the walkway from flooding needlessly. In more modern times, we have soaker hoses and drip irrigation lines that can easily be installed to conserve even more water. In dry areas, you can use mulch, tree leaves, or straw around the plants to keep moisture from evaporating off the upper layers of dirt. No matter what you choose, just keep in mind that the soil should be moist but not muddy.
Sunlight
Climate always play a role in a healthy garden. Most vegetables prefer full sun (at least 6 hours per day) and farm rows are ideal for wide open spaces, thus getting enough sun and warmth in the summer is easy. During the winter, however, wire supported hoop covers can be set up to lengthen the growing season or protect winter crops. Crop covers are designed to allow sunlight through, hold heat and moisture in, and protect plants from unwanted outside forces (like storms and critters). Similar to a greenhouse, this provides sort of a makeshift atmosphere for your garden during cold and wet months.
(Photo provided by Unsplash / Photographer: Karsten Wurth)
Air
Just like everything living on this planet, plants need air too. Not only is airy soil for roots important, but proper air flow around the upper branches is as well, which reduces plant diseases. Luckily, wide open spaces where farm rows are often placed don't usually have much in the way of barriers to natural breezes. If you're growing vine plants, such as cucumbers or beans, install trellises (about 3-4 feet tall) next to each plant so the vines can grow up into the air rather than crowd on the ground surface. In areas with heavy winds, you can use tomato cages to support tall growing plants like okra, peppers, and, of course, tomatoes.
Planting Basics
No matter what type of garden plot you choose, planting are always the same. After you've tilled and formed rows, water the area thoroughly and let drain over night, sow the seeds or seedlings (appropriately spaced), then water again but very gently this time as not to disturb seeds or roots. I'll be discussing starting seeds, transplanting, and choosing nursery plants in future articles.
One final note: Watch for signs of plant diseases, such as discoloration or shriveling of the leaves, holes or insect damage, or anything else abnormal. Some diseases can be healed by adjusting water, soil, sun, or air. But some diseases may be more serious and need further treatment or (knock-on-wood) sanitation. Keep a look out for my pest control guide.
I loved helping my dad in the fields and gardens growing up. Teaching children how to plant and care for crops is a great way for them to learn about responsibility, where their food comes from, and how nature works. One or two garden rows in the backyard can be an exciting place for kids to start.
Have you gardened with farm rows? Please, share any tips or trick – or anything that I might have missed here – in the comments below!
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