Simply mix and pour. Okay, maybe there's a little more to soap-making than just that, such as paying attention to measurements, taking safety precautions, and troubleshooting when things don't turn out quit right. But making your own soap is easy, fun, and rewarding. Make bars for your family, give gifts to friends, and impress your co-workers. Cold process bar soap is the most elementary of all the soap processes (except for melt and pour which isn't the same as making soap from scratch). Once you understand the basics, you can get creative and play around with various recipes.
"Soap and water and common sense are the best disinfectants" – William Osler
Let's take a quick look at the science of soaping. Enjoying soap-making doesn't require a deep understanding of the chemical reaction involved, but I think it's good to know at least a little. I love chemistry, but I realize that it's not for everyone, so I'll keep it simple. Essentially: a fat plus an alkali salt equals soap. Fat molecules are made of 3 fatty acids attached to a glycerol backbone. Alkali salts are are made up of a salt group and a hydroxide group. When making soap, these molecules exchange groups. The fatty acids break away from the backbone and combine with the salts; this is the actual soap component. The remaining glycerol molecule combines with the leftover hydroxide group and turns into glycerine. Water is used to facilitate the reaction. This is a process called saponification. As I'll discuss a little further on, exact measurements of each of these ingredients is very important. So, fat, alkali salt, and water go into the pot. Soap, glycerine, and water come out of the pot. Of course all three components are mixed into a solid mass that we call bar soap. See, that wasn't too complex.
I first started making soap in a small apartment in my early 20's. I took a class at the local Learning Exchange and was enthralled by how fun and easy the entire process is. I used to just sit in front of the TV in that little one bedroom flat, whipping up a batch of soap after work in the evenings. Now, I have a station set up in my workroom just for soaping. Of course I've come a long way since then. I still love making bar soaps, but I also make liquid soaps, powdered soaps, and spray soaps. I make soap for everything from washing our body's to cleaning our house. You may be feeling a little excitement right now (I completely understand), and don't worry, I'll be covering all of these awesome soaps and my recipes in articles to come.
The history of soap making – or so I was told in that very first Learning Exchange class – explains that soap was an accident (much like the discovery of beer and cheese). This story isn't for the faint of heart, so be prepared. Back in the way back, when it was common to sacrifice animals to deities, there was one particular sacred spot with a sacrificial stone perched atop a hillside that the locals used. A little more science: ashes from burnt wood is where lye comes from. Lye, also known as sodium hydroxide, is an alkali salt (and the same one we'll be using in our cold process bar soap making). Over the years, after countless animal sacrifices, the rendered animal fat mixed with lye from the burnt wood made its way down the hillside where a stream meandered through the woods. Then came the day that local villagers noticed that they got cleaner when washing downstream from the sacrificial hill rather than upstream. I don't know how true this tale is, but I could see that happening. We can all read the Wiki on soaps' history, but the takeaway is that soap plays a huge roll in the lives of us humans. Without soap our world would be vastly different. We use it everywhere from the moment we're born. And we're fortunate to live in a culture where it's readily available.
How does soap work? Okay, just a little more chemistry. The fatty acid group of the soap molecule is attracted to other fats, while the salt group is attracted to water. When soap comes into contact with oily substances the fatty acids attach to the oils (along with dirt) while the salts pull it away from the surface it was on, suspending it all in water and making it easy to wash away. This process is called emulsification.
Soap is everywhere and easy to come by, so why make your own? DIY means you control the ingredients, can get creative and customize it, and – like I said – have fun! Looking at the ingredients list of commercial soaps you may notice that not all of them are true soap. Many products on the market for home and body that masquerade as soap are actually detergents. Although both soaps and detergents are surfactants (also known as surface-active agents, a compound that reduces water surface tension and emulsifies), detergents are not made from oils and alkali salts, rather they are synthetic preparations that are harsh on our skin and the planet. By making your own soap products you control exactly what's in them. And you can design your soap any way you like! Play with various base oils, essential oils, herbs or flowers, colors, and so much more. And don't forget to get the family involved. Soap making is a great project to do with your kids. Just make sure they're old enough to follow directions and use safety gear appropriately.
Think about it: There are lots of awesome handmade soaps available today, and I always encourage people to shop smart and support local crafters. Using other peoples soap is a great way to explore and expand your own soap making capabilities. It gives you ideas and can set you in the direction of learning or devising different techniques.
So, we've already covered that we need fat, alkali salt, and water. Let's dig a bit deeper.
Fat comes from plants and animals. Personally, I've never used animal fat and I don't plan too. However, there's a huge selection of plant and tree oils and butters that are easy to come by (although some can be quite pricey). The most common oils used in soap-making are olive oil, coconut oil, and palm or palm kernel oil. I also use avocado oil, hemp seed oil, cocoa butter, and jojoba butter too, but really I like playing with any plant fat.
I already mentioned that the alkali salt used in cold process soap-making is sodium hydroxide (pure lye). You can purchase this powdery substance at reasonable prices from soap supply shops or even in the home cleaning section of your local grocery store as a drain de-clogger (just check the label and make sure its pure with no other additives). However, I purchase mine in quantity from a local chemical supply company. Do some research to find a good price.
You can always use just plain purified water (which I mostly do), but you can also use infused waters too. I love working with flower and herb waters which give my soap added properties. Nothing seems more luxurious that using rose hydrosol as the water component in a rose scented soap that has actual dried rose petals in it (sounds exquisite, doesn't it?). Another opulent option is milk. Milk soaps are delightful and soothing. Note: never use tap water; you never know what's in it that could affect the quality of your soap.
Other ingredients in soap include colorants, scents, and additives. You can purchase coloring agents just for soap-making. Some people use food color from the kitchen pantry. Me? I like to use natural colors like beetroot and blueberries. Soap supply shops also sell fragrances, but many are synthetic blends. I prefer essential oils, although their odors aren't as strong. If your soap will be stored for quite some time before use you may want to include a preservative, although it's not usually necessary. As with anything, there are less natural preservatives available, like Germaben and Optiphen. Of course, I'm a supporter of natures offerings and prefer ingredients like vitamin E oil and rosemary extract (neither of which are actual preservatives, but they both help prevent rancidity of oils, extending the shelf life of your soap). Customizing your soap is what it's all about! To give you an idea, other ingredients can include herbs, flower petals, fresh fruit, charcoal powder, baking soda, honey, yogurt, oatmeal... the list goes on. More about all of these exciting ingredients in future articles!
"What kind of investment in equipment am I going to need?" I hear you inquire. When I first started making soap in my tiny downtown apartment, all I had was a glass bowl, a wood spoon, a whisk, some measuring cups, and a tray that I used as a mold. That's the nitty gritty basics. However, my recommendations today are a little more refined. Most of these items can be found at thrift stores and yard sales.
Important! Any equipment that touches your soap or any of the ingredients is now only safe for soap-making. Do not use your regular kitchen utensils or dishes. Put together a set of equipment that's only used for soaping and nothing else. Sodium hydroxide will eat your skin and you do not want it on a spoon that you're stirring your soup with.
Measuring tools: Soap-making is a science and as with any science measuring is imperative. I started out years ago with nothing but measuring cups, and although they "roughly" worked I don't recommend that. Instead, get a decent kitchen scale. Weight measurements is where its at and how you'll make the best quality soap with the right amount of everything.
Double boiler: Fats need to be heated to a certain temperature and this is best done in a double boiler. Originally, I just carefully heated the oil in a pot on the stove, stirring constantly, and, although this will work in a pinch, it's really easy to burn the oil. You don't have to buy an expensive double boiler either. I upgraded from a single pot to adding a solid metal coffee can. The oil goes in the coffee can, the can goes in the pot, and the rest of the pot gets filled with water. Make sure you use a pot that's big enough to hold plenty of excess water with the can in it. Now, I just have a small stockpot that fits into a larger pan.
Bowls: You'll need one large bowl for mixing all the ingredients together in, a medium-large bowl for making the lye water, and at least one smaller bowl (I use Pyrex measuring cups for these) to weigh ingredients in. Never use plastic or wood. Lye eats and destroys these materials. Also, avoid metal bowls that can be corroded by lye, such as aluminum. And skip glass since lye gets very hot and glass can shatter. Best material: ceramic. The two large bowls need to be big enough to house the solutions within and have plenty of extra room in case of splashing when mixing.
Thermometer: This brings us to how we're checking the temperature of everything. The fat and lye water should be combined at just the right temperature for best results (although when I was first starting out I had no thermometer and guessed everything – learn from my experiences). A glass candy thermometer can work, but I prefer a steel meat thermometer. There's also those high-tech super accurate laser thermometers, which Keith wants to get some day.
Stir spoons: With all these liquids being mixed together we need something to stir them with. Although I started out with a wood spoon, as it turns out, lye eats wood! With a wood spoon you'll start seeing particles floating in your soap. Now I use large stainless steel spoons.
Mixing tools: Whisking your soap can really build upper body strength. I still use a whisk for some soap batches, but if you want easier and quicker, get an electric hand held immersion stick blender. I used to whisk for an hour making the same soap that blends in 15 minutes now.
Other tools: A ladled and a silicon spatula can come in very handy. Also, towels / rags are useful for keeping things wiped down and handling any messes.
Molds: This part can be really fun. What shapes do you want your soap? Be careful though; you could end up spending oodles of money on tons of molds in every shape and size (believe me, I've got my fair share). This is really an area where you need to make some serious decisions. Molds come in all sorts of materials (plastic, metal, wood, silicon) and you can even make your own. I knew a woman years ago who used PVC pipe for soap molds. Admittedly, right now, my favorite mold in a simple wood box with a silicon insert. After the soap sets a bit, I use a slicer to cut it into bars. You may want soap shaped like Christmas trees or butterfly's. If so, I really recommend silicon molds because they make it easy to remove the soap.
Curing rack: Soap needs some time to become the best it's going to be. You can use a cloth or paper lined shelf if that's what you have. Currently, I use a metal wire rack, although we have plans to build a unit with drying racks on top. I'll share that project in an article when we do it. When it comes to curing your soap, just think about a cool, dry, dark-ish location where air can circulate around the bars.
Let's talk safety...
I'll say it again: sodium hydroxide (lye) eats stuff. This includes your skin. Do not get any on you at all. Even a single drop will burn (another one of my experiences that you can learn from). Safety gear and methods are important in protecting yourself and your kids if they're helping. Wear a long sleeve shirt, long pants, and shoes that cover your toes. I have clothing that I wear just for projects like soap-making (and any time I'm working with chemicals), which includes an apron. Wear gloves to protect your hands from potential splashes. Rubber kitchen / cleaning gloves work well. Protect your eyes. You don't need chemistry goggles (although I have a pair of those too); regular safety glasses are what I usually wear. Make sure they cover all around your eyes. And finally: a mask. Since lye is caustic that means the fumes can burn your lungs. If you get any lye on you, pour vinegar on it because acid neutralizes alkaline, then wash with soap and water. If it's a serious burn or you get any in your eyes, mouth, nose or other orifice: call 9-1-1 or go to the emergency room immediately. Don't let this deter you though! Just follow the basic common sense safe handling precautions, which I'll talk about throughout the soap-making instructions. You'll be just fine.
Now that we understand a little more about the awesomeness of soap and what's needed to make it, let's talk about the how. Here it is: the process of soaping. Drum roll please....
Step one: Safety first.
Get on all your safety gear. Also, put any pets away; things could go very wrong if the dog knocked the lye water off the table or the cat decided to stick a paw in it. This is a good time to get your ingredients and cleaned equipment ready to go too.
Step two: Measure everything.
Remember that measuring is an exact science. Thus, based on your recipe, measurements will vary. Weigh your fat(s) into the double boiler first. Next measure water into the medium-large mixing bowl. Finally, weigh the lye in a smaller measuring bowl. If you have any other additives to measure, now it the time, keeping them separated in other bowls or containers.
Step three: Heat the fat.
With your fats in the double boiler, turn on the heat. Boil the water in the bottom pot over medium-high, occasionally stirring the oil. Use the thermometer to check the oils' temperature, bringing it to about 140 degrees. This is 10 degrees higher than what it should be when mixing with the lye, but going over will allow time to make lye water. When measuring temperature, be sure the thermometer is in the middle of the pot and not touching the bottom or sides.
Step four: Make lye water.
Caution! For this part it's important to be in a well ventilated area. Near an open window or ventilation system is good. I make lye water outside and very carefully bring it in after it cools. Avoid breathing any fumes, so make sure your mask is on.
Very slowly add the sodium hydroxide to the bowl of water, stirring carefully with a mixing spoon. Never add the water to the lye; always add the lye to the water. Reason: if you were to accidentally pour the water a little too quickly into the lye, the water could splash up and get lye on you. It's much safer to gently sprinkle the powdered lye onto the water surface. When lye comes in contact with water it gets very hot, up to 200 degrees! Be careful, this will heat up the bowl. Slowly stir until all the lye is dissolved in the water.
Step five: Bring it all together.
When mixing the oil and lye water both should be about 130 degrees. They can be up to 10 degrees apart, but try to time the heating of the oil and the cooling of the lye to meet the 130 degree temp about the same time. Just like when making the lye water, never pour anything into the lye. Instead, pour the fats into the largest mixing bowl. I like to use a silicon spatula to scrap all the fats in. Now, very slowly, pour the lye water into the fat. Use a mixing spoon to gently stir the solutions together, making a figure-8 pattern. You'll see the mixture start to turn cloudy as the chemical reaction takes place. Keep stirring slowly until the entire solution is murky.
Step six: Mixing it up.
Here you can bust out your amazing whisking skills... or grab that immersion blender. No matter what, be cautious not to splash. If using a whisk, work around the bowl in a brisk figure-8 pattern. For the immersion blender, place the blade tip all the way into the solution before even turning it on to avoid splattering, then move it around in the mixture. After a bit (longer with a whisk; shorter with an immersion blender), the mixture with begin to thicken. It's turning to soap! Here you'll want to continue mixing until reaching trace. Using your mixing spoon, drizzle a little of the soap across the top. If it leaves a distinct trail for a few seconds, then your soap has reached trace.
Step seven: Finishing touches.
Once trace has been reached, it's time to pour the soap into molds. Before you do that, this is where you can stir in colors, scents, and any other additives. I use a ladle to fill small molds, but a large spoon works well too. When filling my larger silicon-lined wood mold, I just carefully pour it strait from the bowl and use the spatula to scrape the sides. Cover the filled mold with a clean cloth.
Step eight: Setting the soap.
There are a couple of options here depending on the look you want your soap to have. Gelling refers to soap that is glossy or slightly transparent. This sheen is achieved by letting your soap set in a place that keeps the heat in. When I gel soap, I put the molds in the oven (don't turn it on though). For a more matte finish a cool environment is the trick. I use the refrigerator for this. If choosing the cool method, mix the soap just a little longer with whisk or blender, allowing extra time for the lye to neutralize. Setting time may vary between recipes from about an hour to a couple days.
Step nine: Time to cure.
Soap needs time to fully become soap. Depending on the soap it could be as little as 4 weeks or as long as a few months. I find that most, however, are ready for action after about 8 weeks. After setting time is over, remove the soap from the molds. They should be relatively firm at this point. Place them on your curing rack. Now go live your life until these beauties are ready.
Step ten: It's soap.
Ta da! Your soap is ready for use. Never store your soap in plastic containers or cling wrap. Over time soap releases moisture. Plastic will keep the moisture from evaporating which can cause soap to get funky. Soap should never get wet until it's ready to be used. Paper, fabric, or just open air are great ways to keep your soap dry. When I give bars as gifts I put them in fabric pouches. For our household use, I just toss them in the bathroom soap drawer unwrapped.
( Photo provided by Unsplash / Photographer: Viktor Forgacs)
Pro Tip: make clean up easy.
I store my soaping equipment in a large tub. After I'm done making a batch of soap I put all the used dirty equipment (bowls, mixer blade, spoons, anything that got dirty from use or touched ingredients, including rags used to clean up) into the tub, then put the lid on (this keeps pets and kids from getting into lye remnants). In a day or two, after the mess has saponified and neutralized, I then put it all into the dishwasher, except rags which go in the laundry with kitchen towels. The only exception is that many molds should be washed by hand and not put in the dishwasher. Voila, clean equipment! After rinsing out the tub, just put it all back in to store for next time.
Check out this article if you're interested in Creating Your Own Soap Recipes!
There you have it. That's the basics of soaping and the cold process method. I know you're yearning for more. Start by learning how to make single oil soaps.
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