In restaurants and professional food services, sanitation of equipment and the work space is a legal requirement for food safety. When we make food in our homes for our own families, we might not pay as close attention to the cleaning details as professionals are supposed to though. However, when making certain foods – such as cheese or beer – it's important to properly clean and sanitize equipment prior to use so unwanted bacteria and yeast don't contaminate and destroy your would-be tasty creation. Although this isn't the most exciting topic, choosing the sanitation methods right for you and knowing how to use them is vital to proper food prep.
Disclaimer: This article is not intended to be used as a guide for commercial kitchens and food-related businesses, but rather a guide for the DIY home cook.
It's interesting to note that there are more harmful bacteria in your kitchen than your bathroom. Raw and contaminated foods come into your home, spreading germs to counters, sponges, and all kinds of nooks and crannies. These unwanted micro-organisms can really spoil a good time if not kept in-check. Even for just daily meal prep, it's important to keep the kitchen clean, saving your family from potential food borne illnesses.
Microbes are everywhere and on every surface, good and bad ones.
When it comes to making cultured foods, it's all a battle of organisms; making sure the right ones flourish in your fermented goodies instead of the wrong ones. I've already mentioned beer and cheese, but lots of cultured foods (including yogurt, grain kefir, tempeh, even sour dough starter) develop best in a sanitized environment.
First things first…
When preparing food: wash your hands regularly! I've had plenty of experiences with food poisoning. Although three times were from restaurants, twice I’ve gotten sick from eating a friends' food (yes, the same friend... twice!). Simple personal hygiene is all part of a clean and happy home. After handling anything that can potentially contaminate food and equipment, use soapy warm water and a clean dry towel. Sometimes we also use an alcohol-based sanitizer, especially after handling raw meat and our pet turtles. Some people like to wear food prep gloves, but I don't find that necessary for home cooking… unless you’re de-seeding very hot peppers and don’t want to feel the burn later when you’re watching TV and accidentally rub residual oils in your eye… yeow.
We don't buy the hype when it comes to cleaners.
Many products on the market contain ingredients harmful to our planet, pets, and children. To make matters worse, proclaimed "natural" products available are either green-washing or grossly over-priced. I strongly recommend keeping cleaning simple (and inexpensive) with just a few basic items.
Cleaning and sanitizing are not the same thing.
Cleaning refers to the removal of filth and particles (what you can see). Sanitation is any method that kills most micro-organisms on the surface (what you can’t see). Sterilization is a different horse completely. When you sanitize, most of the microbes are destroyed; when you sterilize, basically all of them are. Since we're not working in a hospital we don't need to discuss sterilization here.
Remember: Cleaning and sanitation is always a two part process. First, clean. Second, sanitize. Even if you're using the same product for both steps (like I often do with vinegar on counter tops), make sure that after you clean and rinse away all the particles, apply the sanitizer as directed again. Allow sanitized items to air dry because re-contamination can come from a towel. Our world is covered in a layer of microbes, thus I recommend repeating this process before and after equipment use. Also, make sure you store equipment in a clean location free of mold, rodents, and other contaminants.
Part One: Cleaning
Cleaning is simply washing with soap, detergent, or another agent. I'll be sharing my homemade liquid dish soap and dishwasher tabs recipes in upcoming articles. Or, use your favorite Earth-friendly brand that's free of phosphates and petroleum by-products (like mineral oil). My favorite cleaners are castile soap for washing and baking soda or salt for scrubbing. Be sure to rinse thoroughly before moving on to the task of sanitation.
Note: For most food prep, regular soap or detergent is fine, but when brewing beer, detergents and soaps should not be used as they leave behind a film that effects the foaming process. Keith uses PBW (Powdered Brewery Wash) for the cleaning step of his brewing gear because it's environmentally-friendly, but there are other brands on the market as well.
Proper cleaning has steps:
1) Scrub off the chunks.
2) Use soap, detergent, or other cleaning agent to remove the remaining food film.
3) Rinse thoroughly. Don't skip this step! Cleaners are typically alkaline while sanitizers are often acidic. Essentially, they interfere with each other.
Pro tip: If you have serious burnt material at the bottom of a pot or other surface, soak it in a sodium hydroxide (lye) and water solution. Drain and rinse very well afterwards, then start with cleaning step one (scrubbing). Lye is a caustic material so be sure to use safety gear (rubber gloves, long sleeves, protective eye wear). Don't get any on your skin (it burns!) and work in a well ventilated area. Also, make sure pets and children can't get into the solution.
Part Two: Sanitation
For our purposes here, sanitation falls into two main categories: heat and chemicals. The term "chemicals" is a chemistry concept that refers to properties and actions of molecules. In short, chemicals are found in all substances, whether man-made or naturally occurring. Let's take a closer look at food-friendly sanitizing methods.
It's gettin' hot in here!
Heat is often used in commercial settings. Many restaurants have big steam machines or use the three-sink method with hot water. At home we have plenty of options as well. Heat is inexpensive because there's no need to purchase replacement products. Also, even though I said I'm not discussing sterilization here, I just wanted to point out that heat is a great sterilizer. Metal items do particularly well with heat because it doesn't damage the metal like some chemical sanitizers. Use common sense: any item sanitized with heat should be heat-proof, avoid heating anything electrical, and remember that heat can burn. Use tongs to relocate hot items and avoid touching heat sources.
Fire – Images of the Old West when people would sanitize their metal utensils by sticking them directly in flames or burning coals comes to mind here. Although an outdated method, I feel it still deserves an honorable mention. Gas burners and barbecue pits can provide flames, just be careful not to burn yourself. Hold the object in the fire for a minute or two. The only time we use this method is when camping or backpacking.
Hot / boiling water – This is as easy as filling up a stockpot with water and turning on the stove. Once the water is hot (at least 190-degrees), simply immerse tools for 5 minutes. Use tongs to remove hot items, placing them on a clean sanitized counter to cool. Some people say the water can be as low as 171-degrees, but as a cheese-maker, I know milk is pasteurized at 190-degrees so that feels safe for my sanitation purposes. This method is my favorite for stainless steel utensils.
Steam – This is a lot like hot / boiling water. Just as though you were steaming some veggies, fill a large pot at least 2-inches deep with water and bring to a boil. Arrange items in the steamer basket and put a lid over the whole thing. After 5 minutes, carefully remove hot items and let them cool on a clean sanitized surface. Wood items, like bamboo mats and wood spoons, sanitize well with steam but should be left in for 20 minutes so the steam can penetrate the wood thoroughly.
Pressure cooker – A pressure cooker can work as a small autoclave (a high pressure, high temperature chamber used for industrial purposes). Always read your pressure cooker manual first for instructions and safety guidelines. Elevate the items on a metal trivet or use a steamer basket if you have one that fits. It takes about 15-20 minutes to sanitize. I'll admit I haven't used a pressure cooker to sanitize in almost two decades, but is a powerful option.
Oven – As a dry heat method, the oven takes longer than wet heat (boiling or steaming), but is especially useful for larger items that won't fit in a stock pot or steamer basket. The lower the temperature, the longer the equipment needs to be in the oven. A 250-degree oven requires 12 hours to sanitize, while a 320-degree oven only needs 2 hours.
Microwave – Some people use the microwave. Microwaves work by heating the water inside the microbes themselves. The only time I microwave to sanitize is for fabrics....
A note about dishcloths and sponges:
A contaminated cloth or sponge can be one of the most offending sources of microbes in your home. Sanitize used rags and sponges with heat prior to use to reduce infection. This is especially important in the making of cheese and other dairy products where cheese-cloth and towels are needed. Steam, boiling water, microwave, and pressure cookers all work very well at disinfecting kitchen fabrics. Like I said, this is the one type of material that I sometimes sanitize in the microwave, especially if I’m in a hurry. Simply moisten the cloth or sponge and microwave on high for a few minutes or so.
Use the right chemicals!
From nature-made to man-made there are a variety of substances available for use. When using any chemical sanitizer, keep in mind that concentration is a factor. Too much can be toxic (especially some of the man-made products), while too little can be ineffective. Different products also require different exposure time. Chlorine may only need to be on the surface for a few seconds, but vinegar requires about 10 minutes. Always follow the instructions on commercial sanitizer product labels for proper handling and storage. When working with harsh chemicals, safety gear is recommended.
Caution: Beware of mixing chemicals! Many products react with other products and can create toxic fumes and solutions. A few examples of what never to mix include: chlorine + vinegar = chlorine gas, chlorine + alcohol = chloroform, and vinegar + peroxide = peracetic acid. Other chemical reactions can reduce cleaning power, such as baking soda + vinegar. An alkali and an acid always react together, rendering each other useless after the reaction ends... it's just science. However, while this reaction is happening, it does generate good cleaning power (such as with toilet tabs). But, when it comes to sanitation, use individual products on their own so they're most effective and safe.
Chlorine – Confession: because of health and environmental factors, we don't use chlorine in our home. Although extremely effective on a wide variety of pathogens, chlorine (aka, bleach) is corrosive and can irritate living tissue. I wanted to include it here because it’s one of the most common sanitizers used in commercial kitchens and food manufacturing facilities. It should never be mixed with any other ingredient aside from water. With metal equipment (stainless steel, brass, bronze, etc.), chlorine corrodes and creates microscopic pits in the metals' surface, making it easier for bacteria to hide in the future. For this reason, it should never be used on metal cooking or storage vessels. However, it does work great for plastic items and counter tops. It only takes 7 seconds for a surface exposed to undiluted chlorine to be sanitized, but diluted bleach should set for up to 20 minutes. 1/2 teaspoon per 1 gallon water creates a solution that doesn't need to be rinsed, but anything stronger than that must be rinsed thoroughly after disinfecting.
Iodine – Like chlorine, iodine is commonly used in restaurants and breweries, and is very effective. It’s not quite as harsh as chlorine, but iodine can still be irritating to living tissue and cause damage to metal equipment. These are the reasons why we don't use it in our home either. Another down side: iodine stains many materials a brown-orange color (including plastic and ceramic). Add 1/2 teaspoon to every gallon of water, and soak tools 2-10 minutes (longer time kills more germs). Iodophors are iodine-based products that differ slightly in chemical structure (they contain iodine molecules attached to polymetric molecules). In short, these products are supposed to be safer than strait iodine, but, like I said, we don't iodine at all. If you choose to go this route, be sure to follow label instructions.
Hydrogen peroxide – Peroxide is known for killing germs around wounds and can do the same in your kitchen. Standard peroxide comes in 3% or 5% dilution. Use either at full strength. Simply soak items for a couple of minutes or wipe down surfaces and let air dry. Peroxide may create some foam, if so just wipe away after a few minutes. Don't use on brass or copper because peroxide reacts with these metals. Sodium perchlorate based sanitizers (such as B-Brite and Oxyclean) work by releasing peroxide. Keith sometimes uses B-Brite, but I prefer plain ol' peroxide. Neither peroxide by itself or sodium perchlorate based products need to be rinsed after use on equipment. Bonus: to clean fresh fruits and vegetables (which we do when we make raw juice every day), just add a tablespoon or two of peroxide to a bowl of water and soak the fruits and veggies for 10 minutes.
Alcohol – Any clear alcohol works: rubbing alcohol, vodka, gin, white rum, everclear. Isopropyl is the form of alcohol found in rubbing alcohol and typically comes in 70% and 91% strengths. Although great for counters and your hands, I don't recommend using rubbing alcohol to clean surfaces that will come in direct contact with food because it's more toxic than drinking alcohol and can leave an unwanted flavor in foods. Ethanol is the "active" ingredient in all drinking boozes and is perfectly safe for food-contacting surfaces. The higher the alcohol content the better. Spray it on or soak tools for 10 minutes, and let air dry. We keep a spray bottle of cheap 80 proof vodka handy. This is our favorite sanitizer to use for cleaning up after a poultry butching session (Keith breaks down whole birds, which we store in our freezer – a huge money saver). Be aware, however, that alcohol can somewhat dissolve plastics, including tubing used in brewing.
Vinegar – Vinegar is a great acid-based multi-purpose cleaner and sanitizer. It kills unwanted bacteria and inhibits the growth of mold, plus works really well at cutting through oily film. This is our number one go-to daily cleaner and sanitizer. It's safe for just about every hard surface, and to soak towels and cloths in. We never sanitize with apple cider or other vinegars because they can contain live cultures – which may not be the ones we want in our fermented foods. Store-bought white vinegar is acetic acid diluted to 5% (although now you can buy 6% "cleaning vinegar"). Many people recommend diluting it farther, but we use it full strength. Like alcohol, spray it on surfaces or soak tools for 10 minutes, then let air dry. Not everyone can deal with the smell of vinegar. If you're one of them, try adding some essential oils, such as peppermint, or choose another sanitizing option.
I'd also like to mention another environmentally-friendly food-safe product that we use in our home: Star San. It's a common acid-based sanitizer used for brewing equipment because it doesn't damage hard metal. Plus it's safe around pets and children. It works like vinegar but without the odor or potential effect on the flavor of foods. Star San takes only 1-2 minutes of contact time and doesn't need rinsing. Use as the label directs. We always keep a spray bottle handy especially for brewing and cheese-making.
Citrus – Because of citrus’ acidity, this natural cleaner is commonly employed in homes. Lemon juice is the most popular form used, along with essential oils of lemon, orange, and grapefruit. Unfortunately, citrus alone is a weak sanitizer. In order to kill a large amount of microbes, the surface would have to be exposed to the juice for quite a while. However, both citrus juice and essential oils are great additives to vinegar or alcohol, offering a cleaning boost and fresh scent.
Salt – Sodium basically kills microbes via dehydration (think brine). A very strong salt water solution does create an anti-microbial environment, but, like lemon juice, takes a long time to kill a variety of pathogens. Salt makes a better scrubbing cleaner than a sanitizer. We use it to scrub our cast iron.
Baking Soda – I love using baking soda for all kinds of things around the house, cleaning included. But, much like salt, it's not a viable sanitizer because it would take too long to kill enough micro-organisms (regardless of what the internet says). However, like salt, it's also an awesome scrubbing agent.
Try this: We use lots of fresh lemon juice in foods. After squeezing the juice, I take the remaining half-cut rind and clean our wooden cutting boards (just clean, not sanitize). Dip the lemon half in salt or baking soda and use it to scrub.
We mainly utilize boiling water or steam, alcohol, vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, and Star San in our home. Your needs, equipment materials, and what you're making can determine which of the solutions discussed in this article should work best for you. Although it's not the exciting part of creating delicious foods and beverages, cleaning and sanitizing equipment is probably the most important part.
Now that you’ve developed a routine of cleaning habits: on to the fun stuff...
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